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Costa Rica
Adventure March 2nd through March 31 2004
Link to Panama
Information Page May 2005 Adventure Bluffs
Beach, Panama Info
Costa Rica - Day 1 Montezuma
Hotel
on the beach $11 a night. I am staying another night. Its a dead head
town, beautiful beaches, all English speaking. No surf, but good diving. I
am going to take a bus to Mal Pais in the morning hopefully. Things don't
work on schedule around here so who knows. I am going to look for some
monkeys and do some Toucan hunting..... Talk to you in a few days. Miss you
all. The journey has begun. Imperial beer in hand. Out.
Day 4. Mal Pais 3/6/2004 Day 5, Mal
Pais/Santa Teresa, Costa Rica Day 6, Mal Pias/Santa
Teresa, Costa Rica
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through the 26th 2005 from my next adventure to Costa Rica. with photos. Day 10, Playa
Hermosa Friday 3-12-04 Day 13, Costa
Rica Dominical Monday 3-15-04
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Rica. with photos. Dominical -
Day 17 - March 18, 2004
Going surfing now. I hope this entry finds you well.
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Dominical -
Day 18, March 19, 2004
Dominical 3/20/04 - (Last day in Dominical, 11 days left on the trip)
More pictures to share.
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Rica. with photos.
Day 20 - Puerto
Viejo, Costa Rica 30 kilometers from the Panama border. Day
21 Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica
Puerto Viejo Images
Day 23 in paradise. Puerto Viejo
Until the next adventure.
Final reflections:
Most Memorial Moments:
Best of:
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Rica. with photos.
This was my planned trip before I left Jeff Dean's Trip to Costa Rica
March 2004 |
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Its been a long long long journey to get here. It took me 24 hours to get
to Montezuma and what a trek it has been let me tell you. The
flight was rough with 3 hour max sleep Starting at 11pm on Tuesday and
getting here at 1:30pm the next day. Then getting attacked at the
airport by taxi drivers. I swear I felt like Sammy Hagar after a
concert. I decided to take a taxi to Mal Pais for $100 which was
cheaper than taking a plane and faster than taking a bus so I
thought. Well
the driver was cool. Long story, cut short, We picked up his family, got
stuck in major traffic, I bought lunch for everyone and drove to a ferry
missed the ferry, go the next one at 7pm go to the Nicoya Peninsula at
9:30pm and the journey really began. We took dirt back rounds for 2.5
hours. NO lights on the roads, no signs, no people, only pot holes, ditches
and dust. After an hour, losing the hub caps twice, car screeching, I
decided it was best to get this over. I said the next town we stay. The
next town was my airport Tambour, argg I should have just flew in and made
it easy. Well the prices were to high for lodging so I said Montezuma, I
got your hotel. We went on and arrived at 11:30pm.
A bungalow style 
After surfing I took a hike to the next town Mal Pais and checked out a
surf camp that Ron is always pumping up. I liked the camp. It was to
far from the break for my taste although and did not have the breeze
that I have at Franks Place and its much more costly for what you get.
I hiked it on the beach from there to the end of the beach where a huge
rock jets in the water. There was a great deal of smoke coming from
there yesterday so wanted to investigate to see if possibly some
monkeys or Toucans may have been driven from their homes and were in eye
view. I was surprised to find a restaurant at the base that looked
like it created by Hollywood, large bright light blue chairs at the
waters edge, palm trees everwhere, situated in a lagoon. It was
prefect. I had the Arroys and camarones. (rice and shrimp) for $3.50
and a large water. I found out after a brief trek that it was a huge
fire that did scare a large number of iguanas out of there and they
were all over this one tree. One feel just in front of me, hissed and
scurried away. I saw a vulcher grab one and take it to a tree top and
rip it in half with a buddy of his. The iguana must have been
injured already I assume. 
do, humm what to
do. I will go down south for a while and travel to the Caribbean for a
while, maybe 10 days or so depending on the swell.
I finally found out why the surf was closing out so much. It was a
direct west swell that come in that was hitting Mal Pais like no ones
business but here it was straight on due to the angle of the beach. I
am told a new swell will be here by Friday so tomorrow I will venture
south to Manuel Antonio to seek out some wildlife until the swell
picks up when I will be in Dominical.I have a new friend here. Her name is Sunshine. She is a 1 year old
pooch that lovesme to death. She follows me everywhere, waits for me
at the water and goes to dinner with me.
I posted a good number of new pictures and since picture tell a
thousand words please take a look in lew of a long lettertoday since
I
need to do some more surfing and take a nap. I went out last night
with my buddies from the up front house Christopher and Anita. Their a
couple from New Jersey who travel around the world staying months at a
time. They even have houses all over. She is about 38 and he is
around 60. We smoked some weed, it was my first time ever, that they
bought here. Apparently they like to some because he bought 2 ounces
for the 2 months they are here. I was seeing monkey, toucans and
elephants after that. We went to a local restaurant called Los Olas
and had some killers local food. I bought them dinner and drinks. It
cost me 7500 colones, big dollars for dinner here but maybe not for
three people. We brought our own beer in to which was cool and we
smoked at he table while we watching in Gods hands, a killer surf
flick I HIGHLY recommend you see. Ok time to rest and surf some more. 
PS. I thought I wrote a long letter from Jaco to you all but I don't see. Maybe it was in one of weird dreams here...... I will look and if
not tell you about the crazy boat ride I took from Montezuma. Holyyyyy.
have read and seen first hand, is an incredible writer. I am honored
for he gave me copies of all his writing since he got here, 14 pieces
in all. I was so thrown back by is action to let me read these
first. It was credit to my intelligence he told me. I am hoping he
will help me with my quest to be a writer. He and I are very similar
other than our ages, he is 64, and he does not surf anymore but rather
rafts. Its a crazy sport. I actually took one out in 12 footers this
morning and almost broke my lip on an inside bowl section that threw
over like a hammer. I took 3 nice size waves then jones for my board
to get some serious tube rides I saw others getting. I ran back to my 
not get off, rather he looked out the window and said it again at each 
got
solicited by a hooker, paid 1600 colones for 2 beers and threw a fit
over the outrageous charge, the bartender got on the phone and pointed
my way, I paid and jetted home taking it as a sign it was time to
settle down for the night. Got up at 7, had breakfast, packed up and
just made my bus to dominical at 10am. I thought it got there at 10,
but it left at 10. Thank Zeus I made it. I took the bus south on a
dirt road for 2.5 hours through the most lush tropical forest you can
imagine. It was the best ride yet for me here. I took some of my
best shots yet, I think, of the people, sodas, and homes. Stayed last night in a $13 a night room the size of a closet with two
beds and a fan. The name of the place is Cocos. I found another
place called Tortia Flats that I negotiated for $20 a night with a bacony on
the beach over looking the best break in town. The name Tortia Flats
just sounds like a killer place, which it is. Clean, nice restaurante
and bar next door and did I mention it was on the best break in
Dominical? Oh yey baby,,, I am styling in a $150 night hotel (in the
USA) for $20. How can you go wrong with that? I am there for 6 days. Surfed some great waves last night at high tide, around 5pm till dark,
6:45. I went out with my new/old neighbors/friends who are staying at
Cocos to the local hangout called thrusters, 2 pool tables, fuzzball
and cheap drinks. I had 2 Bombay Saphires and tonic for you JB for
hooking with up with that pack :-)
The tide was high at 9am, I got up at 6 and surfed alone on some of
the best rides I have had here yet. Big hollow rights and left. I was on
fire out there by 8am. I found it was best to drop in late as
possible, since the winds were off shore, the waves held up all day
long. I would drop in as late as possible and ride the crest of the
lip for a fewyards before I would punch it down to the bottom and
then pull the board to the top for the sickest floaters I have ever pulled
off, snap the board back into the pocket for some speed, work the wave
a little like a skateboard(I always say skateboarding is the best
practice tool outside the water), pull the board to the top and float
the section or do a long cut back to the pocket again. I love the
water here. Its 80 degrees plus and it is so clean and refreshing.I am going to try and upload more pictures tomorrow for you all. I am
still in search of monkeys and tucans and Captain Gene Rogers. Non
yet but I am sure to find them on another journey. I am may go to Panama
next week to an island I heard about called Bocas del Toro on the Caribbean side. I am told you take a water taxi to the break for $1
and there is a place on the ocean for $5 a night. Its a full day and
a half trek by bus to get there from here so I am still contemplating
the idea but it does sound like a plan, I will have to skip Pavones
although but that is ok. I need to see some crystal blue water and do
some diving as well, none over here yet, argg. I am told it has been
raining there for 2 weeks now which is another bummer, but I may still
have to go. Read below:
by plane from Panama City, David and
Changuinola, or by ferry from Almirante and Chiriquí Grande.
Surfs been fun over the past couple of days. I took a hike the 
local
petrol station 2
km down the road. I found out about a buried treasure on an Island
off the coast of here called "Isle Del Coco".
have the time and are still following my adventure in Costa Rica. I dont really know how many of you out there are even getting this since I
only here from a few of you regarding interest in my happenings. If
you are getting this message and want to opt out please email me back
and say so. I hate to send this to you if it has little interest to you. It is part of a work that I plan to try to publish after the
trip is all over and it is edited.Hope all is well. Back to my research and surfing. I am renting a
horse today for 3000 Colones(425c to 1 US dollar). I imagine that
will be an adventure.
Today it was 15 foot and
growing as the tide came up. I am satisfied so far with Beach Break as it
was breaking at 10 foot and on a sand bottom. I found the place I was
looking for in Costa Rica. This is is. Its tropical, and has the
feel of a Caribbean lifestyle, laid back, slow, and reggae music
fills the air everywhere you go. I am staying at a place called
Rocking J's tonight for $20 but found a deal for $10 a night in the
jungle just off the road. I am so stoked to move there in the
morning. I am sure I will see monkeys etc at my door step daily. I
saw one monkey in the trees today but he was not moving. It was
exciting to see either way. A car load of tourists from San Jose
spotted him and were whistling for him to move, very obnoxious Ticos. I stayed in a $13 a night hotel in San Jose last night. I went out in
town and got a little to drunk with a new friend from Nicaragua. He
was crazy. He carried a huge knife and showed it to me at the bar. He kept talking about the mafia in the bar, Black Men, and how he was
going to take them out. He also told me about a boat he has and would
be interested in taking me to Isle Del Coco, which is why I took so
much interest in him in the first place. 
Its only a
couple hours away and maybe stay at Boca Del Toro, at that place those
Canadians raved about. I may do a two tank dive off a boat as well
if the weather is right for $60.
I will write more after I get settled in my new place that I am really
looking forward to. It a small cabina all alone nestled in a grove of
palms and a flower garden. I think it will be my best accommodations
so far, for $10 how can you go wrong either way. Miss you all. Californians, we will have to get together so I can
show you all my images and talk stories.
Next time we all have to come here as I know
where to go now, for cheap. I think this place is the best I have
found so far although, Puerto Viejo area. Oh yeah I broke loose and
rented a vehicle. A 2 year old beach cruiser with a basket. It is
needed around here and besides it only cost me $3.40 a day. This
place is so freakin cheap, I love it. Ok uploading images (multitasking, disc burn of images from camera is
complete) I need to work fast here so that I can get back to the surf
Its taking wayyyyyyy to long to upload the images right now so I will
do it when it gets dark. Maybe they will upload on there own as I am
keeping them uploading but it may get cancelled as someone may sign on
and kill it.
bad hype I heqrd about this place and the crap lore that its expensive
over here. I am paying $10 a night for a cabin nested in the jungle. Its so freakin beautiful here I
don't want to leave. The surf, ahhh
the surf, well that bring tingles to my dark tanned skin, it has been
firing here. I love the surf here, so much more than the other side. Oh my god I have been getting such incredible waves at Beach Break
(Cocos). It was been going off. Large drop in barrels and floaters
like I have never pulled off before. I am so stoked. Looking for
propert after I go offline here. I am not leaving this place, at
least in mind, anytime soon. 
Got sick as a doggie last night. I saw Mr. Hankie 5 times today and
did not eat but once in the am (fruit plate) due to it and surfed
most of the day so I did not care much about food just water. Around
6 I took some pepto bismo thinking it would help, smoked some of the
local tobacco, drank some fruit juice, chilled and went to eat at 7:30
with 9 hours of no food in me. When I got there I began to feel
violently ill so I ordered a Imperial, of course, and asked if she could
bring me some rice and beans right away to help me out. She said they
only had full plates so I ordered a bean burger. I got up to use the
toilet because I felt naucious, then ran to the beach to let it out. I was about to vomit, finger in mouth, when a local came up and said
hey bro, dont vomit there, use my shirt. I looked at him like I was
going to rip his head off, he walked away. I proceeded to let it
out. After I felt dizzy, sweating, major stomach cramps and felt like
I was to pass out. I went back tot the bar, cancelled my order and
rode my bike back to the cabin as fast as I could to make sure I was
in a safe place. Got to the cabina, crawled up the stairs laid on
the bed then sat up in fear of pássing out, drank a lot of water, ate
a cliff bar, very
slowly. I am ok
I told you about the book I read here called "In Search of Captain
Zero" about a guy, Allan, from Montauk NY, where I lived last in search
of his lost friend Christopher. The story is a true one, yet I found
out was embelished upon. Its about a guy named Allen and his friend
Chris´s drug smuggling adventures across the globe. The storystarts
as Allen leaves NY in search of Chris who is supposed to be somewhere
in Central America. He writes about his adventures through Mexico,
down to Costa Rica where he finds his buddy Chris in Puerto Viejo. It
was one of the the reasons I came here, to find Chris. Well I met
Captian Zero last night. He was cruising in front of me on his bike
flashing his light back at me so I would not run him over then in front
of him to avoid the pot holes. I made a comment that we needed full
suspension bikes, he said "these are the worst roads in the world",
then I replied, "do you know that from experience", he said of course
and then I moved in front of him to move on down the road. I thought,
what a crazy gringo.... I was going to a restaurant to watch a movie, Bedazzled and to, of course, have a few Imperials. I sat down began
the drink fest when I saw the old man walk and sit next to some German
girls. He said I am hiring and need to give you a drug test, because I
need to make sure you are doing drugs to work for me. He then laughed
and said, seriously do you need anything? I saw him glance my way as to
say you are next buddy. I waited as in que for him to come over and he
did. He stood 
next to me by a pole and said, hey do you surf. I
said, "does a dog have fees in Costa Rica". He chuckled then said, "I
am Captain Zero". I looked at him and for sure he had the age down to
be him. He had a NY accent and for sure this was him. I
said, "Christopher"? He smiled from ear to ear and said YES YES YES
that's me I am him. Oh my god I cant believe you know who I am". I
told him how I was in search of him, and he went nuts with excitement. It was as if I gave him a million dollars. We talked all night about
Montauk, about writing a sequel
together, buying homes, do some
internet stuff, etc. I was just so in ahh to be hanging out with him
that nothing mattered. It was like hanging out with a cartoon
character. We promised to hang out more, I want to know more about
HogFish Ranch and what he has been up to. I want to verify some of
Allen's Drug smuggling stories. I think I rode to Panama today. That trek
down south was so awesome. I
cant go to Panama after all since I don't have a paper airline ticket
since I changed it over the phone. You need to show you are leaving
Costa Rica within 3 months to enter. Its not a problem to leave Costa
Rica to go to Panama just to come back in. Maybe I will try and jump
the fence tonight and sneak over the swim back. LOL.
closed but nothing worked. I ventured on. The trail came to a beach
then up a mountainside and back into the jungle. It was now 11:15 and
since I only had the scooter for 8 hours beginning at 9am I decided it
was best to walk back on a parallel trail used for horses. It was
muddy and very difficult to walk through. I walked a few yards before
I realized it was to difficult and began back to the other trail when a
huge black snake hissed and skated off into the woods. I passed this
snake only seconds ago. I wondered since I was looking in the trees for
more Tucans if I could have stepped over him. Scary. I now thought I
need to keep my eyes more aware of my surroundings to be safe since
there was no one close by to help me should I need emergency
assistance, although I did have my snake bite kit and a knife in case I
needed to cut off a limb or defend myself against a puma. Hahaa 
when I did not find a way. I rode back to PV and took a dirt road just
north of town that went along the beach. It was an unexplored area
with land for sale that I am confident will be worth big dollars down
the road. I am going to go there on my bike after this and get some
phone numbers. I plan to call both parties today or Monday and get
some numbers. This is the place to buy land and to settle down. I
love this place. 
respect for it. I was so stoked I stayed out for 3 more hours. I got 
it here and I am still here. I had the best time in Costa Rica. We 
- Tide Table
Packing - Bus Travel Info: Bus Travel info:
http://www.costaricabybus.com/beaches.html
Web Links
Real Estate
Bus Schedule - 750 PUERTO VIEJO DE TALAMANCA (express bus from
San José) - DEP. ev. day from Terminal Caribe at 6:00, 10:00, 13:30, 15:30;
RET.: 7:00, 9:00, 11:00, 16:00; 215 km; 4:30 hrs. You can buy tickets in
advance. $4.42 ** Auto-Transportes Mepe S.A. company. Tel. 257-8129
725 PUERTO VIEJO DE TALAMANCA from Limón - DEP. Ev.day from Radio Casino at 5:00, 8:00, 10:00, 13:00, 16:00, 18:00. RET. 6:00, 13:00, 15:00, 16:00, 16:30, 1:30; 1.5 hrs. $1.07 ** Auto-Transportes Mepe S.A. company. Tel. 758-1572
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Money Conversions
U.S. Dollar Exchange as of February 18, 2004.
Buy: 422.57 CRC per 1 U.S. dollar
Sell: 424.10 CRC per 1 U.S. dollar
Day 1,2,3 - Mal Pais
March 2,3,4
Back to Top
Transportation to:
Direct bus service from main bus station
in San Jose to Puntarenas leaves every hour. Then board ferry to Paquera. Once
in Paquera take other bus to Cobano once in Cobano board local bus to Mal Pais.
Best to depart San Jose at 8a.m. Most travelers take the
ferry
from Puntarenas to
Paquera
and either drive directly to Mal País or head first to Montezuma and
then take buses to Mal País. From Montezuma, take the
bus to
Cóbano
(15min., 6 per day 5:30am-4pm, ¢200) and catch a connecting bus from the
same stop to
Santa
Teresa via
Mal País
(1hr., 10:30am and 2:30pm, ¢500). Return buses start in Santa Teresa and
pick passengers up at the main crossroad by Frank's Place before heading
back to
Cóbano
(7 and 11:30am).
Hotel:
Mal Pais Surf and Sport Camp ($15-$50/night; ph: 642-0296, USA:
954-583-5560)
http://www.malpaissurfcamp.com
Email: surfcamp@racsa.co.cr
Santa Teresa Cabinas ($20-$30/night) closest to the surf. About a
mile north of the crossroads
Frank's Place Request sent 3/23/04($25-$60/night; ph: 640-0096; email:
playamalpais@hotmail.com
Rancho Ituana ($40-$60/night) is a clean, friendly choice, with 4
breezy cabinas (w/kitchens, if you're inclined).
Hotel
Surf The Place
$60 Rancho Style Bungalow (506) 640 0001 Email:
theplace@caramail.com
http://www.theplacemalpais.com/rooms.html
Surf:
A beach
break that peaks with some rock reef . This wave offers a long right wall and a
shorter left breaking over a sloping sand bottom. When these breaks get big, try
the nearby reef breaks in Manzanillo or to the south of Carmen. Best on
west/southwest swell.
El Carmen: A long right and a shorter left surfing over sand.
Santa Teresa: Usually bigger than Carmen and better on low tide.
Playa Hermosa: Beach break lefts and rights.
Playa de Los Suecos: a lefthander with a fast take off followed by a long
workable wall. Gets hollow with size and offshore winds.
Punta Barrigona: A long lefthander wraps round the point turning into a
great hotdog wave as it moves through the inside. Needs a lot of swell to work
properly.
Conditions: Surf El Carmen, Santa Teresa, and Playa Hermosa when it's small,
Playa el Suecos and Punta Barrigona when there's a swell.
Day 4,5,6 - Playa Negra
March 5,6,7
Back to Top
Hotel:
Pablo Picasso's Request sent 3/23/04
http://www.pablosplayanegra.com
Email: pabloscr@hotmail.com
Phone:
A/C $25, No A/C $20, Flintstone Room $10
Aloha Amigos
(658 8023), a 15min. walk down the main road (do not
go left at the first fork) beyond the soccer field. Owned by friendly Hawaiians,
this hotel offers a few airy, clean rooms with shared or private bath,
kitchenette, and loft, plus washing machine and hammock on the back porch. The
complex centers around an inviting rancho with open kitchen and
restaurant meals. US$10 per person with shared bath; 2-person cabins US$30 per
day, US$50 for up to 6 people.
Juanito's Ranchitos
(658 8038), next door to Aloha Amigos, offers lots
of free extras including bikes, snorkels, surfboards, and Happy Hour.
Renovations in progress. Call for availability. US$25 per person; US$10 per
person for groups of 3-4.
Kon-Tiki
(658 8117), on the main road just past the turnoff
to Aloha and Juanito's, is a cheap tree house-like place with good group rates.
Rooms sleep up to 6 people. Shared baths are dark but not cramped, and there's
space for hammock-lounging and surfboard-storing. Breakfast ¢1000; lunch or
dinner plate ¢1800; there's also a kitchen. US$10 per person; US$8 per person
for groups larger than 4.
Pasta Mike's Hotel
(658 8270) the first place you come to on the road
from Paraíso, is another good budget option with three basic, buggy rooms and a
vegetarian restaurant with tantalizing meals. Surfboard rental US$5 per day.
Singles US$10; doubles US$15; quads with private bath US$25, with A/C US$40.
Mono Congo Lodge
(fax 658 8261) nearby, is soothing and elegant:
invitingly dark and cool. All wooden, with tall, solid white beds, a shared
hot-water tiled bathroom, and hammocks lining a wraparound terrace. The living
room, community kitchen, BBQ, and restaurant are well-integrated. Tennis courts
available. Horseback tours US$15 per hr. Surfboard rental US$10 per day. Doubles
US$30 including breakfast, US$45 in high-season. Guesthouse with 2 rooms,
kitchen, and bath US$85 for up to 12 people.
Hotel Playa Negra
(658 8034; fax 658 8035;
www.playanegra.com;
playanegra@co.cr), take a left
(coming from Paraíso) at the first fork in Pargos. Comfortable beachfront
bungalows perfect for the surfer dude/dudette. Bungalows have 3 beds and private
tiled baths with hot water. The restaurant features a wide-ranging menu.
Spaghetti ¢2700. Surf lessons US$20 per hr. Board rental US$20 per day. Horse
rental US$12 per hr. Doubles US$50, high-season US$60; triples US$55/US$70;
quads US$60/US$80. AmEx/MC/V.
Surf:
Epic right-hand reef/point break. Very
consistent, perfect and powerful, known as one of the best breaks in Costa
Rica. Playa Negra starts to really turn on when it's a couple feet overhead, and
can hold almost triple overhead without closing out. Very playful and fun
surfing when its around head high.
12 kms south of
Tamarindo offering a rock-reef right break that is fast & hollow at low tide
creating a picture perfect ride.Best conditions in the morning with a mid tide
going out. Negra will pick up swell from many directions and crowds can be a
factor.
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Day 7,8,9 - Tamarindo
March 8,9,10
Back to Top
Hotel:
Cabinas Doly ($20-$30/night) on the beachfront.
Cabinas Marielos (Singles US$20-30; with A/C US$35-45 ph.653 0141 AmEx/MC/V. across from Cabinas Doly and next to Iguana Surf
Frutas Tropicales (653 0041), 900m north of the circle, about 100m south
of the Best Western. Behind the popular fast-food restaurant, 3 tile floor rooms
with TV and hot baths. Doubles US$20; triples
US$28. AmEx/MC/V.
Cabinas Marielos (653 0141), across from Cabinas Doly and
next to Iguana Surf. On the high end of budget deals, but worth a splurge.
Super-clean, cool cabinas are set far back from the main road. Rooms
have sparkling private baths, powerful fans or A/C, safes, and access to a
fully-stocked kitchen. Some rooms have balconies. Surf and boogie boards for
rent from helpful staff. Singles US$20-30; doubles
US$30-40, with A/C US$35-45; triples US$40-50. AmEx/MC/V.
Hotel Milagro
Request sent 3/23/04($30-$60/night; ph: 653-0042; email:
flokiro@sol.racsa.co.cr ,
which has a groovy, native vibe and some hammocks;
Hotel Pueblo Dorado ($40-$60/night; ph: 653-0008) on the north end
Hotel Zully Mar ($40-$70/night; ph: 653-0140 AmEx/MC/V.)
www.tr506.com/zullymar;
zullymar@co.cr
La Palapa ($40-$70/night; ph: 653-0362) has some great beachside rooms.
Cabinas Pozo Azul (653 0280), just north of the Best Western. An
excellent deal---each clean, spacious room has a private bath, fridge and stove.
There is also a pool and long porch. ¢3500 per person; July ¢5000.
Cabinas Coral Reef (653 0291), 50m up the road from the Centro Comercial
Aster. A good budget option, with clean dark wood-paneled rooms. Communal
fridge, surf lessons, and massage available. ¢2000 per person.
Costa Rica Conexion (ph: 653-0496),
Surf:
Playa Grande: Probably the most consistent of all Tamarindo's spots, even
though it's a 20-minute drive or 30-minute hike north of town, Playa Grande is a
cooking beachbreak, especially on a good south swell. It's a somewhat flat-ish
beach, so it has the tendency to close out at low tide, but at mid-high tide,
it's all close-to-shore, a-frame tubes -- the best (and most crowded) peaks are
right in front of the Hotel Las Tortugas. Always bigger than town -- if
everywhere's flat, Grande will have something to ride, and it's especially good
when an off-season south combines with wintertime offshores.
El Estero (Tamarindo Rivermouth): Not a totally classic rivermouth setup,
but a damn good wave when the sand settles just right, which it can for weeks at
a time. Rights on the south side and lefts on the north. It's at the north end
of town, across and down from the Best Western, and as such, can get really
crowded. Watch out for fisherfolk.
Tamarindo Beachbreak: Average beachbreak that's never as good as Playa
Grande, but it has the advantage of being right in town -- that walk/drive to
Grande twice a day gets old pretty quick. Lots of beginners here, so you get a
chance to show off your closeout maneuvers.
Pico Pequeno: Right lava reefbreak that can get absolutely insane -- it
seems to favor a southwest swell and a mid-high tide (low tide is sketchy and
shallow), but as it's right in the heart of town, everybody's on it when
it's on. As it's also a one-peak sort of wave, the crowd is especially difficult
and can be dangerous
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Day
10 - Jaco' Beach
March 11
Back to Top
Hotel:
Cabinas White House (643 1140), 100m south of the bridge, has
enormous rooms with private cold water bath, 2 double beds, couch, fan, and a
small fridge. The rooms can get a bit stuffy even with the fans, but the sweet
Italian owner Paula will try to make your stay as comfortable as possible.
Guests get discounts at a few nearby restaurants for breakfast and lunch.
Laundry US$4. Rooms for 1-4 people US$10 per person;
larger, fully-equipped apartment for 4 people US$50.
Jungle Inn (643 1631), 100m south of the bridge on the first
street leading west. Colorful jungle murals, a well-kept pool, and Jane/Tarzan
themed bathrooms in the courtyard spice up the simple, but spotless, rooms with
private hot-water showers. Safe deposit box, night guard, and jacuzzi. Singles/doubles
US$25-40.
Chuck's Rooms and Boards (643 3328), 700m north of the bridge; turn
toward the beach at La Hacienda Restaurant; Chuck's will be on your left. The
hundreds of surf-slang bumper stickers are proof that almost all surfers crash
here for a night after a rough day on the waves. Relax in the courtyard or rest
in the hostel-style rooms. Dorms ¢2700 $6; doubles with private cold bath ¢6000
$14; 1 triple with A/C and private hot-water bath US$30;
1 cabin with full kitchen, A/C, private hot bath, and TV US$50.
Hotel La Cometa (643 3615), 150m north of Banco Nacional, across
from Centro Comercial El Paso. Simple, clean, quiet rooms with fans and hot
water in shared or private baths. All rooms share an airy courtyard with
hammocks and a kitchen. Singles ¢4500 $11, with private
bath ¢7000 $17; doubles ¢5000/¢8000 $12,$19; triples ¢6500/¢9500.
Surf::
Jaco -- the main beach town just north of Hermosa -- is apparently Costa
Rica's "Surf City", but the surf is rarely good as the sand is pretty flat and
doesn't seem to ever form good banks -- which is fine if you're a fan of
closeouts. If it's decent in Jaco, there's a good chance it's firing at Hermosa.
In between Jaco and Hermosa are a couple bigger-wave reef breaks, and south of
Hermosa are some gentler, mellower beach breaks.
Day
11,12 - Playa Hermosa March
12,13 Back to Top
Surfers at Hermosa who never leave will tell you to skip Jacó entirely and head
directly to this idyllic miniature surf community. Hermosa is virtual paradise
for those seeking long, quiet days, lazing away in hammocks on beachside patios
or catching the near-perfect waves that roll onto the long, black-sand beach.
After high tide drags back a piece of the shore for the last time each day, the
town's sprinkling of locals and a handful of mostly American visitors meet at
one of the charming beachfront restaurants or bars to enjoy the evening. Life
here is as laid back as the surfers who live in it.
Hotels:
Costa Nera Bed and Breakfast (643 1942), just north of Cabinas Las Olas,
has fresh, new rooms with private hot-water bath and a beachfront terrace.
Singles US$20; doubles US$30-40; large room with
kitchen US$45-55. Discounts for long stays.
Cabinas Vista Hermosa (643 3422), near the south end of town,
offers large, apartment-style suites for two, four, or eight, with a fully
equipped kitchen, private bath, and two swimming pools.
Singles US$15-20; doubles US$20-25; quads US$35-40; 8 people US$50-60.
Good discounts for surfers.
Rancho Grande (643 3529), made of upright wooden logs, is cozy and
uniquely decorated like a tree house. Cool rooms are large and have private
hot-water bath, but most guests spend their time enjoying the view from the
large patio or playing with the friendly owners' adorable children. Communal
kitchen available. US$10 per person.
Cabinas Las Olas (643 3687), near the center of town, is an
amazing value for larger groups planning on staying a while. Wooden ladders
grant access to second-floor private bungalows; 3 smaller cabins sleep up to 6
and have small patios and A-frame upstairs lofts. For a real treat, the skybox
suite is a luxurious third-story bungalow with a breathtaking view. All rooms
have tile floors, private hot-water baths, fans, fridge, and kitchen. A small
pool and beach front sitting are perfect for breaks between the tides.
Reservations recommended. Singles US$25; doubles
US$40; triples US$60; 6 people US$110; large rooms in main building sleeping 4-6
people US$80-90. Significant discounts in low season and for long stays.
Surf:
A long stretch of
beach offering some of the most consistent conditions on the Pacific Coast. A
variety of sandbars have formed creating a pounding and tubular beachbreak. The
following are the breaks that line this beach:
a. Terraza - a fast, hollow right breaking
in front of a group of visible rocks. Several other breaks just south of this
break offer less punishing waves breaking over a sandbar. Best on a
west/southwest swell from low to mid tide incoming.
b. Backyard - a very consistent sandbar located at
the entrance to the dirt road in Hermosa. This wave breaks close to the beach
and is generally hollow with rights and lefts. Best conditions on a
southwest/west swell at mid - high tide incoming.
c. Almendro (Almond Tree) - breaking in
deeper water than most of the hotel breaks, this break also offers a sandbottom
with rights and lefts. Best conditions on a south/southwest swell at mid- high
tide incoming.
d. Corners - breaking in even deeper water creating
a little more size, more sandbottom rights and lefts. Generally bigger than
northern breaks of Hermosa. Best conditions at low to mid tide and a
west/southwest swell.
e. Tulin - located in front of the Soda Tulin about
10 minutes south of the Backyard, this break is consistently a few feet bigger
than the hotel breaks. There is also a rivermouth break further south (w/
crocodiles) with a perfect line-up in ideal conditions. Best at low tide on a
west swell.
- Day
13,14 - Quepos March 14,15
Back to Top
Hotels: - Cabinas Mary (777 0128), on the main road across from the soccer field, is for those who prefer to be away from the noisy bars. Clean rooms have powerful fans and private cold-water baths. Parking available. ¢2000 per person in rooms for up to 4 people.
- Cabinas Hellen (777 0504),
150m west of the soccer field on the main drag. Clean rooms with fridge and
private cold-water baths in the yard of a friendly family. Chat up the
parrots in the courtyard. Singles ¢5000 $12;
doubles ¢6500.
Mar y Luna (777 0394). With your back to the bus station, walk right to the end of the block, turn right, and then left at the next corner; Mar y Luna is a few meters down to the right. Friendly and helpful owner Alvaro maintains plain fan-cooled rooms in cheerily painted hallways with super clean bathrooms. The best features are the common area with TV, the upstairs balcony, and the small courtyard where breakfast is served. Laundry ¢650 per kilo. Singles ¢2000 $5; doubles with private bath ¢4500 $8; triples ¢6000. - Hotel Malinche (777 0093), across from Mar y Luna. Larger, modern rooms have efficient fans, furniture, and big clean, cold-water private baths. Credit card phone available in lobby. The Barco Bar next door can be a bit noisy. Singles ¢3500; doubles ¢7000; triples ¢10,300; quads and quints ¢13,500.
- Hotel Ramu's (777 0245), a few doors down from Mar y Luna, across from Barco Bar. The hallways are a bit dark, but the small bedrooms are clean and have two fans. ¢2000 per person.
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Adventures:
Pacific EcoTours Corporation S.A (777 3030 or 777 1924;
www.canyoningtours.com/dreamforest). Excellent canopy tours on steel
cables hovering over 100ft. above the forest floor and extending up to 600m
between trees (US$60). The more daring should try their canyoning tour
(US$60), a thrilling experience descending and ascending rushing cascades with
safety lines and belts. Includes breakfast, lunch, drinks, and transportation.
Fourtrax Adventure (777 1829), near the southeast corner of the
soccer field, 50m past the lavandería. Offers exhilarating full-day ATV tours
(US$95) to the town of Londres in the mountains. Open daily 7am-9pm.
Iguana Tours (777 1262 or 777 2052;
iguana@co.cr), at the southeast corner
of the soccer field. Arranges hiking and horseback tours of Parque Nacional
Manuel Antonio (US$37), boat trips to Damas Island (US$60), and kayaking tours
(US$65). Experienced guides specialize in rafting trips on Ríos Naranjo,
Parrita, and Savegre (US$65-90). Prices for full-day trips include a rescue
kayaker paddling alongside you at all times. Second location at Manuel Antonio
(777 2746). Open daily 7am-7pm.
-
Day 15,16,17,18 - Dominical
March
16,17,18,19
Back to Top
Nestled at the foot of a beautiful little mountain and four or so hours south of San Jose, the mile-long stretch of sand that fronts the town of Domincal offers up some fine beachbreak -- maybe not as hollow and A-Framey as Playa Hermosa, but on a high tide and a head-high-plus south swell running, there's more than enough to satisfy the most rabid wave seeker on holiday.
The only problem is that the sand is kind of flat, which can turn the best swell into a series of closeouts if you're not careful; fortunately, there's a river at the north end of town that breaks up the sandbars a bit and the best peaks are generally around that area.
Dominical is one of the first beach towns in Costa Rica to employ full-time lifeguards, which should tell you something -- the rips that form along its stretch can be serious. The good news is, if you're a good paddler, you can hang at rip's edge and pick up little corner peaks.
The town of Dominical is an easy place to spend some time -- the hotels are fairly cheap and walking distance from the surf, there seems to be a steady influx of travelers keeping things interesting, and there's a hearty ex-pat population, meaning you'll have access to gringo food, internet connections and can get by pretty OK speaking English. (Though of course you'd already brushed up on your Spanish before you came, right?) Lots of folks have come for a couple weeks and ended up staying for a couple years -- it's that kind of place.
Hotels:
Cabinas El Co-Co (787 0239), at the south end of the main road. Run by Luis García, it has the cheapest cabinas near the beach. Rooms are basic but comfortable. ¢2000 per person $5; Dec.-Apr. ¢3000 $7. Nice rooms facing the beach with private baths for ¢7000 $17. AmEx/MC/V. - Cabinas San Clemente (787 0026), toward the northern end of the beach road, is wrapped in outdoor jungle decor. Luxurious rooms, spacious tiled floors, and small tables. Rent snorkel (US$10 per day), boogie (US$7 per day), and surf equipment (US$18 per day), or take surf lessons (US$35 per day, board included). You can also exchange US dollara and traveler's checks. Laundry service ¢800 per kg. Doubles with fans and cold water US$20, with hot water and A/C US$40; Dec.-Apr. additional US$10.
- Posada del Sol (787 0085 or 787 0067), 30m south of the Dominical School, just before the fork in the road. Quiet and clean with private baths and firm beds. The owners, Leticia Porras and Mariela Badilla, want to create a family atmosphere in this small place. Their garden is closed for all but guests and features a beautiful array of flowers and porch side hammocks. Singles US$15-20; doubles US$17-35; triples US$22-40. Apartment with kitchen US$500 per month.
- Tortilla Flats (787 0033), north of the side street on the beach road. Its newly redone, spotless rooms and tiled bathrooms with hot water make it one of the most popular places among those with money to spend. Rooms facing the beach have balconies. Others include a private outdoor hammock. Rooms with double beds and fan ¢8500 per person $14, with A/C ¢10,000 $24; triples ¢10,000/13,000. Credit cards accepted.
Surf:
Strong beach break with lefts and
rights. Fairly consistent break, located about 45 minutes south of Quepos.
The northern end of the beach offers bigger sets while the southern end is
better for intermediate surfers. Best conditions at mid - high tide.
Real Estate:
Century 21/DHR Realty
(ph: 7870138;
www.dhrrealty.com) deals with Dominical to Quepos
South Coast Realty (ph: 787-0005;
www.southcoastrealty.co.cr).
Dominical Realty (ph: 787-0223;
www.dominicalrealty.com). Don't
expect to find the $4000 beachfront lot anymore, though.
Day
19,20,21,22 - Pavones March
20,21,22,23
or till when ever.
Back to Top
South Africa has J-Bay, Indonesia has G-Land,
Australia has Kirra, Europe has Mundaka, California has Rincon, and Costa Rica
-- god bless it's Tico heart -- has Pavones. It's been called the longest left
pointbreak in the world, and though Chicama in Peru probably holds that
distinction, a good wave at Pavones works your legs more than an hour on any
bloody stairmaster ever would. Rides of three minutes are possible on a solid
south swell -- and that's three minutes of full-on, down-the-line,
zero-cutback surfing. It's the kind of wave that -- especially if you're used
to surfing beachbreaks -- will expand your whole scope of riding waves. Your
bottom turns are extended 30 yards and top turns can last longer than some TV
commercials.
Transportation:
All buses pick up in front of the school along the shore. Two
buses per day run from Pavones to Golfito (2hr.; 5:30am and
12:30pm, return 10am and 3pm; ¢550 for the bus, ¢30 for a ferry ride en
route). The bus heading to Golfito stops in Conte, where you
may catch a daily 4:30pm bus to Playa Zancudo (¢300). On the
weekends, an 11:30am bus also runs from Conte to Zancudo.
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Cabinas Esquina del Mar is a true surfer hangout with a popular cantina. This bar is open irregularly, and is always blaring music in the daytime. Nightlife in this town is lacking, as tourists wake up early to surf straight through the day. Rooms here have dying mattresses and boxy but clean communal bathrooms. Bring a mosquito net, as there are no screens on windows. Ask laid-back surfer owner Billy for room #1, the most popular suite. (383 6737. ¢2000-3000 $5,$7 per person, negotiable for students and longer stays.)
Hotel Maureen High, varnished-wood ceilings, fans, and spacious floors. Communal baths are in mediocre condition, but are not unpleasant. (Singles ¢2000 $5, negotiable for longer stays.) The restaurant downstairs offers a limited selection (Casado ¢1100; open daily 5am-10pm), but the attached store offers lots of packaged food. (Open daily 3pm-7pm.)
Cabinas Cazolas 1, a block from Hotel Maureen on the road perpendicular to the soccer field, offers neat, homey rooms. (Laundry ¢100 per piece. Check-out 11:30am. No noise after 10pm. Access to family's kitchen. Surfboard rentals US$10 per day. Rooms US$8; with sparkling, tiled bath US$10.)
Cabinas Willy Willis 2, next door to Maureen, is one of the cleanest, most newly-renovated hostels in town. Each room has a private bath and has two wooden beds. (US$20 per room, no discounts.)
Cabinas Celeste 2, up the street from Esquina La Plaza, has huge beds, spacious tiled floors, and communal bathrooms. (Shared double US$8 per person, negotiable for longer stays.)
Surf:
Pavones is one of Costa Rica's most famous surf breaks offering one of the world's longest lefts which, on a good day, can connect for 2 - 3minute rides. The wave has several sections which allow for carving, pumping and, of course, showing off for the folks sipping on their Imperials at the Cantina at the end of the break. This area is extremely remote and if you can catch it on a good day, the logistical nightmares surrounding your arrival will be well worth it. However, there are many things to consider before traveling to Pavones. Due to its location on the interior of the Golfo Dulce, it is blocked from many swells and can go for weeks with no surf. Moreover, once the swell hits, it is common to see a large crowd of international travelers (+ the protective locals) battling for position. We recommend not going here until you know there is surf...once you get there, it is a long way back! There are very few hotels in the area and almost no services.